Sunday, March 27, 2011

Anna Hansen’s hot spot


For me, London is about eating, drinking cocktails and visits to the Continent. On the eating front, I had dinner last night at The Modern Pantry chef/owner Anna Hansen's Soho pop-up restaurant. 
What is a pop-up? Good question. 
A pop-up is a restaurant, bar, or shop that springs up in unexpected locations, causing a storm, only to disappear just before the hipsters gets bored. Comme des Garçons started the trend with its guerrilla stores.  

Anna Hansen is no Comme des Garçons, but she does use traditional and modern ingredients, in both usual and unusual combinations, with great style. Her food has warmth and a desire to please. Thoughtfully prepared dishes with a twist.

I enjoyed my entrée of Jerusalem artichoke, mustard greens, lentil and haloumi salad. The vegetarian main of Inari filled with tofu and walnut, with wattle seed pumpkin, wild rice and soy broth and dessert of Salted tamarind caramel, turkish delight and chill tonka bean truffles.

Another London first for me was the delightful bathroom attendant who enthusiastically addressed my every hand washing need. I wondered if she was also part of the "pop-up" phenomenon... 

Whether I was enjoying the lovely fit-out, the beautiful food or gazing into the eyes of my Italian waiter. *Sigh*  My first pop-up experience was an enjoyable one. 

Until 16 April, The Modern Pantry pops up at Meza, 100 Wardour Street, Soho, London W1F 0TN. The Modern Pantry permanently resides at 47-48 St John’s Square, Clerkenwell, London EC1V 4JJ 

*Knife and fork drawing appropriated from www.themodernpantry.co.uk

Friday, March 4, 2011

Glühwein & après

As far as I am concerned, fun in the snow always includes a generous dose of après-ski. And quite frankly, après is not après without a liberal dose of Mulled Wine (or glühwein, vin brulé, vin chaud... depending on your après location). 

Recipes vary dramatically, but try this one for something different. The fiery chilli whacks the back of your throat, as only it can. 

750 ml red wine
110 gm (½ cup) caster sugar
2 thin orange slices
1 thin lemon slice
1 small red chilli, halved lengthways
1 cinnamon quill
½ fresh bay leaf
½ vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped
½ tsp black peppercorns
¼ tsp cloves
30 ml brandy

Combine all ingredients (except brandy) in a saucepan. Bring to just below the boil, stirring to dissolve sugar (3-5 minutes; do not boil or alcohol will cook off). Remove from heat immediately, strain (if you wish), add brandy and serve hot.

Best consumed swathed in animal hide, lounging on sheep skin, in front of a raging fire. 

Tongue. I happen to like it. And I'm not just talking about French kissing.


Beef tongue cooked in German Ale. It's not for everyone, but I happen to enjoy its calorific goodness. I have a soft-spot for tongue. I have memories of arriving home from school to tongue gently simmering  on the stove. But of course, it's also the  flavour that has me coming back for more. Beef tongue has the richness of liver, whilst still being wonderfully moist and tender. Perfect with potatoes boiled in salty water, and faultlessly complemented by the malty goodness of dark ale. Trust me. It's offaly good.