12 onions

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

Princi: a mouth brothel for carbophiles

This place has been described as
"a mouth brothel for carbophiles". I have to agree. Don't go to the pub, just come here for your Heathrow Injection. I'd take thighs filled with
Green Olive Sfilatini over a pint of lager any day.

Princi 135-137 Wardour St London W1F 0UT

In my opinion, Princi is best-suited for take-away. For those seeking to linger awhile, to sample the cakes and pastries, I would recommend the
Cannoncini, though it would be hard to choose wrong in this place.
Italian is being spoken everywhere, plus there are cute men in uniform, so t
here's lots to look at while you're waiting to order.
For me, t
he only downside of Princi is its popularity. Case in point,
I'm being jostled out of my spot
by a Hello Kitty obsessive. This
Kitty needs cake too!

How was the coffee? Very good European-style caffè.

Most satisfying.
Did they have soy? Yes.
Would I go there again? Yes.
Should you go there? Yes. The coffee

will quicken your heart rate, and will thus be an excellent metabolic boost, which will no doubt aid in the digestion of the
Cannoncini
you will feel compelled to eat.
Any other points to note? T
he ordering system is a shambles, so get your pointy elbows ready for some jostling.

Monday, June 13, 2011

The Coach & Horses: a great mouthful

Always keen to nurture my food baby (and make a living), I last week headed to Clerkenwell to photograph the new menu at the Coach & Horses.

There are many Coach & Horses in London, but only one of them can boast new Head Chef, John Ring. The always affable Chef and his spirited team, create delicious, seasonal food, in this updated Victorian pub, just off Farringdon Road. Well-balanced portions mean that sharing is a great option. You should order the House-cured salmon with pickled cucumber and pub made oat crackers and the Pork rillettes with carrot chutney, pickled onions & traditional Irish soda bread (photos above). The expected pub-grub cornerstone - the Coach burger served with golden, salty, chips - is also on offer. Crispy pigs ears feature on the menu, but not because they’re trendy, but rather because that’s what John grew up with.

John is focussed on giving his diners a great mouthful and there are few pleasures as simple as a great mouthful. So, whether you're in need of a post-hangover pick-me-up, or a long relaxing lunch with friends, the Coach & Horses will leave you satiated.

The Coach & Horses, 26-28 Ray Street, Clerkenwell London EC1R 3DJ

Tuesday, May 31, 2011

Bar Italia: it is the real deal

Bar Italia. It's an institution.
It's
tradition.
It's a
foundation.
It's an
asylum.

Bar Italia 22 Frith Street, Soho, W1D 4RF

Bar Italia is part of the Soho Zeitgeist (along with fetish, jazz and the theatre). Jarvis Cocker even wrote a song about the place...

"... now it's morning there's only one place we can go.
It's around the corner in Soho where other broken people go. Let's go..."

Run by the same family since 1949, Bar Italia is a traditional Italian café. Simple menu, efficient service, mirrored walls, garlic hanging from the stained ceiling (along with the Italian flag) and lots of regulars. This place is so Euro they even accept payment in the currency.

A table of ageing Scotsmen are seated next to me. They've ordered a wee bottle of Sambucca to go with their midday coffee. It's an established combination, black coffee and Sambucca. All they need is Whiskey and they'll have a Clansman. I'll included a recipe below, for those curious (or cold) enough to give it a try.

How was the coffee? The espresso is thick, strong and topped with ruddy coloured crema. Perfect.
Did they have soy? No, but it hardly seems to matter. You don't go to Bar Italia for the latte art.
Would I go there again? Absolutely. Perfect spot for people watching. It's Little Italy in the heart of Soho.
Should you go there? 100%. Bar Italia may be small, but it feels like big things happen here.
Any other points to note? It's thankfully open 24/7. And who knows, if you're there next month, you may even bump into B.B.King or Liza Minnelli.

Clansman's Coffee

Ingredients:
1x measure of Whiskey
1x dash of Sambucca
1x shot of Espresso coffee
1x dollop of whipped cream

Method:
Wipe the rim of a glass or mug with a piece of lemon and dip it in brown sugar. Pour in the Whiskey, Sambucca and Espresso shot. Add sugar to taste and float the whipped cream on top.

Best enjoyed whilst being dinked* on horseback, riding through the Highlands of Scotland, in the company of hairy, kilt-wearing Scotsman. Och aye!

* Dink: to carry a passenger on a bicycle (or horse in this case) with only one seat.

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Caravan: I aroma round a lot

It's literally raining pollen. I've sought out Caravan - a restaurant, bar and roastery on Exmouth Market - to spend an hour or so trying to avoid choking to death on the miscellaneous tree spunk flying around the streets.

Caravan 11-13 Exmouth Market, London, EC1R 4QD

Caravan is buzzing. There's a line of people waiting for a table and the maître d’ is gripping her clipboard so tightly her knuckles are opaque. Oh dear. The staff seem friendly, except that they are refusing to make eye contact. Instead, they dart around, orbiting just out of my reach.

In the meantime, I can't help but notice that many of the very cool looking diners are bravely participating in the current fashion trend of en masse denim wearing. I see denim vests, denim blazers, denim brimmed hats, even acid washed denim. Denim is trending all over the place.

How was the coffee? Quite drinkable, but watery and too bitter for my tastes. The eggs are redemptive. My perfectly cooked scrambled eggs were exemplary.

Did they have soy? Yes!

Would I go there again? Yes, for the eggs.

Should you go there? Yes, for the eggs. And the atmosphere.

Any other points to note? There’s a private dining table in the basement, by the coffee bean roaster and right near the open kitchen. Could be fun for dinner with a group of friends.

*The above image was appropriated from www.caravanonexmouth.co.uk

Tuesday, May 17, 2011

St Ali: a phenomenon of caffeinated dependency

Melbourne's own St. Ali has opened its first coffee bar, roaster and restaurant on Clerkenwell Road, London.

St. Ali, 27 Clerkenwell Road, Farringdon EC1M 5RN

This place is no secret hideaway! It's heaving with people. I hear Australian ascents, Caribou's excellent album "Swim" and the ever comforting lisp of the waspy London Gays. I could be in Melbourne! It's glarey-grey outside. And a pixie just brushed by me wearing a navy blue feather covered mini-skirt.

Feeling like cake, I turn to the dessert section of the menu only to find a note saying, "All emotional eating carbohydrate fixes are displayed deliberately to trigger impulse purchases at counter..." I've been seated very far from said counter. I need coffee. Immediately if not sooner.

How was the coffee? As good as their product in Melbourne. Fresh, consistent and delicious.

Did they have soy? Yes!

Would I go there again? Yes, though I would not order the Sardines. They were covered in scales. The Chef refused to descale them, saying something about preserving their inner-scale, safeguarding the sanctity of the scales, satiability of scales... You get the drift.

Should you go there? Yes. St Ali know that coffee is the great phenomenon of dependency. You will come to need them. You've been warned.

Any other points to note? Keep an eye out for another St. Ali outpost in the West End and Sensory Lab, a smaller-scale version, in Wigmore Street. Both are due to open in the coming months.